Tutorial: Bias Binding

This is another old tutorial, to accompany the one on creating bias tape. Please pardon the craptastic photos - all of these tutorial images were taken on an old phone camera. Most of these tutorials were created to aid beginning costumers who didn't necessarily have every tool out there on the market. They were also intended to encourage hand sewing skills, as little details like hand stitching really are what make a costume look like clothing. I hope you find this, and the successive tutorials, useful!

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Bias binding is commonly used to finish edges and add a bit of structure. It is extremely useful when you need to finish an edge that can’t have the seam allowance facing toward the inside of a garment. You can get really fancy and make your own bias binding, or you can go the easy route and get double fold cotton bias binding at Joann’s for about $2.50 a pack. There are multiple ways to do this (at FIDM, they taught us at least three different methods), so if you find another technique you like, feel free to use it.

What you’ll need:

Your garment

Double fold bias binding

Needle

Matching thread

Scissors

Optional: A thimble (or a dime taped to your finger)

Step 1: Open up your binding and pin it to the backside of your garment, lining up the raw edge of the bias binding to the raw edge of your fabric.

 

Step 2: Sew along the crease in the binding. It’s faster if you do this step by machine, but hand sewing isn't bad, either – plus, you have more control if you’re sewing around sharp curves.

Step 3: Flip your garment over and fold the bias binding down, so that the raw edge of your garment lines up with the center crease of the binding.

 

Step Four: Stitch down your bias binding to the face of the fabric, using small stitches (about 1/8” to 1/4” apart).

 

Step Five: Tie off your thread, and you’re done! That wasn’t so hard, now, was it?

Tutorial: Bias Tape!

This is an older tutorial for making bias tape without a tape maker. If you have a bias tape maker, this gets so insanely easy to do! However, not everyone has every single tool there is out there, and bias binding is easy enough to do if you have a little patience. This tutorial, like a number of tutorials I plan to post, were made roughly three years ago, when I was the costumer for the Italian guild, San Lorenzo, at the Renaissance Pleasure Faire in California. The idea, when I originally made these little instructionals, was to help people with all the little details that really bring a costume together. Most, if not all, of these how-tos are common knowledge, but it's nice to have them all together in a single place!

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So, you want to make your own bias tape? Awesome! It’s easy! Bias tape is used to bind edges on items you can’t hem, or otherwise close up, like on bodies/corsets. It can also be used on the neckline of a lady’s camicia, to hold gathers or help add a little structure. When folded in half and not quarters, it can become piping, snipped picadils, trim... the possibilities really are almost limitless! And it’s easy to make! It is a bit more time-consuming than going out and buying the stuff, but you get the advantage of having bias tape that perfectly matches your garment.

What You’ll Need

Fabric

Scissors/rotary cutter

Ruler

Chalk/colored pencil/pencil/pen

Iron

Ironing board

Step 1: Cut your fabric. If you’re edging a corset or binding a gathered neckline, I’d recommend you make your binding 2” wide. This is where the chalk/whatever and ruler will come in handy.

 

Step 2: Fold and press your fabric strip in half.

 

Step 3: Open your strip back up, and fold the outer edges in to meet the center crease you just made. And, of course, press.

 

Step 4: Fold your tape in half, along the crease you made in Step 2, and press again.

 And you’re done! So easy, and so attractive!

Evolution of a Corset

This entry is going to be somewhat image-heavy, mostly because I don't have a lot to say about the project. The sky blue corset I've been working on is nearing completion - all that's left at this point is adding grommets. But since that's the only thing left, I'm going ahead and creating an entry as if it were done. Because I can.

Here is a picture from after I had assembled all the fabric bits and threw it on my form. I like putting things on dress forms often, because I like checking and making sure everything is about where I want it. Plus, it's just plain satisfying.

Aaaand, here's a shot of it, as I was adding boning and channels.

Exciting, right? Maybe only for me. Next is one of the bias binding, and a closeup of some of the flossing.

Flossing was originally added to help keep bones in their channels, thus avoiding issues of them popping through stitching and/or the fabric, itself. The technique quickly evolved to become more than just functional, and there are some beautiful examples of flossing in period and modern corsetry. Mine isn't particularly beautiful or refined, and it doesn't take theform of flowers and the like, but I do enjoy it, nonetheless. Like embroidery, it's soothing to do and helps complete the overall look.

Nice effect, huh?

And lastly, the finished corset.

I'm very satisfied with the finished product. This corset would look better on a body than my crappy form, but it definitely achieves the look I was going for: feminine, soft, pretty. 

What I learned from this project:

Not much, really, though I did enjoy working on it. I did learn that Ageless Patterns isn't much help, beyond just the basic pattern. If I ever need to make something I've never done, I won't buy a pattern from this company. The stitching on the corset isn't as perfectly symmetrical as I'd like, but it's still quite satisfactory. 

After I get the grommets in, this piece will be delivered to its new owner, and I'll be taking measurements to get her gown underway.

Up Next: Luigi Gaddi and Mario Sforza